A Night At Apollo Temple

Temple of Apollo in Didyma at night

As the Temple of Apollo in Didyma lights up for night visits for the first time after extensive work, so does the head of Medusa. With a light shining in her face she looks less than amused and who can blame her. I certainly cannot as I observe the unsympathetic additions that just do not echo this beautiful and sacred ancient site. The concrete pathways, the gravel, the metal fencing, and new ticket booth are eyesores against the elegant beauty of this treasure from the past and that is not the only problem.

Temple of Apollo in Didyma at night

I actually have a Muzekart, this is a card only residents of Türkiye are able to purchase, but despite the people in front of me being charged 100tl for night entry I was charged 6 euro. I was told it was not valid for night visits, so I questioned why the two people ahead of me were able to use theirs. I was not given any satisfactory answer, so will let everyone draw their own conclusions on that.

However, as soon as I entered this magnificent site, with the sun setting over the ruins, the moon rising in the distance, my annoyance at having been over-charged disappeared in an instant. I had missed this place, the magic and mystery of it, the memories of visiting with many friends over the years, the discoveries myself and my dear friend Glenn Maffia had made, studying the unusual carvings on the Pronaos at the top of the steps and discovering they were ancient board games.

Despite the already crumbling concrete paths, the metal fencing and wooden steps and the gravel surrounding the Temple itself, it still held the same feeling of awe that had captured me every time I had been fortunate enough to visit. The magnificent size of the columns, the ingenuity and precision of the fluting, the extraordinary workmanship, every intricate detail carved into the marble. The three remaining columns, still standing proud that had defied the earthquakes and other disasters that had decimated the many others that lay scattered in ruins, still captivated me so much I was able to overlook abhorrent modern additions.

There were however other disappointments to come, firstly the Adyton was roped off, forbidding entry, I am hoping this is temporary as there are many areas that are still unfinished with wheelbarrows and other builders' detritus laying about but for now, the very heart of the temple is inaccessible, I sincerely hope it doesn’t stay that way. Secondly the lighting, white lights in and around the steps shine in your face as you try to enjoy the pleasure of the site, being able to visit during the evening with the cooling breeze makes its so much more pleasurable for many, not just locals but the summer tourists who want to escape the heat of the day.

The lights do look beautiful from a distance but make photography a bit of a challenge with the glare and more importantly could be dangerous with the uneven ancient flooring. I know how Medusa must feel.

This article first appeared in Turkish Archaeological News (https://turkisharchaeonews.net/)